BY: Anna Madsen
Mood/Style:
since he gained control, Bill Gaytten has put his stamp on the John Galliano brand by turning down the volume on Galliano’s theatrical noise and baroque tunes in favour of a more classic and toned-down melody. Yet, we did hint some Galliano-nostalgia in his A/W 16 collection, which instantly made us lean forward a little more on our chairs. The Vicomte Valmont-coats and Napoleon jackets with their soutache detailing we know so well came back, however without their frou-frou blouses. The navy captain hats that Galliano used to be a fan of appeared with jacquard silk coats and tailored wool trousers, and to make everything a little sweeter, many of the looks were topped off with the iconic high top boxing sneakers Galliano is often seen sporting. Naturally, Gaytten’s DNA also shone with its presence; barely-there crisscross sequin tulle dresses reminded us of the ballerinas from a Renoir painting, while loose, navy angora knits teamed with black, pleated midi skirts added something quintessentially Parisienne with their sombre colour palette and timeless elegance. Gaytten’s feminine slip dresses were worn with heavy army coats in a perfect symbiosis between the two designers. It was Gaytten who stepped out to accept the cheering from the crowd following the collection, but Galliano was still very much present, albeit in spirit.
Lengths:
maxi and midi
Colours:
navy blue, royal blue, white, black, charcoal grey and khaki green
Materials:
wool, cotton, organza silk, crepe silk, tulle, lace, angora and astrakhan
Shapes:
androgynous loose fit with feminine cinched waists, empire lines, drop waists and A-line
Accessories:
high top boxing sneakers and navy captain hats
since he gained control, Bill Gaytten has put his stamp on the John Galliano brand by turning down the volume on Galliano’s theatrical noise and baroque tunes in favour of a more classic and toned-down melody. Yet, we did hint some Galliano-nostalgia in his A/W 16 collection, which instantly made us lean forward a little more on our chairs. The Vicomte Valmont-coats and Napoleon jackets with their soutache detailing we know so well came back, however without their frou-frou blouses. The navy captain hats that Galliano used to be a fan of appeared with jacquard silk coats and tailored wool trousers, and to make everything a little sweeter, many of the looks were topped off with the iconic high top boxing sneakers Galliano is often seen sporting. Naturally, Gaytten’s DNA also shone with its presence; barely-there crisscross sequin tulle dresses reminded us of the ballerinas from a Renoir painting, while loose, navy angora knits teamed with black, pleated midi skirts added something quintessentially Parisienne with their sombre colour palette and timeless elegance. Gaytten’s feminine slip dresses were worn with heavy army coats in a perfect symbiosis between the two designers. It was Gaytten who stepped out to accept the cheering from the crowd following the collection, but Galliano was still very much present, albeit in spirit.
Lengths:
maxi and midi
Colours:
navy blue, royal blue, white, black, charcoal grey and khaki green
Materials:
wool, cotton, organza silk, crepe silk, tulle, lace, angora and astrakhan
Shapes:
androgynous loose fit with feminine cinched waists, empire lines, drop waists and A-line
Accessories:
high top boxing sneakers and navy captain hats
Full article: http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/collections-fall-winter-2016-17/john-galliano